AA80E 8-speed

[Jim Blackwood]

Update: I have the controller mounted in the car, the wires bundled and pulled, the main transmission connector (and of course the AMP connector) completed and the shift selector switch almost done. I need to determine how to best deal with the reverse input and back-up light circuit, as they are of opposite polarities (AD1/GDI2 -reverse- input sinks to ground, Back-up switches hot side. Contacts are heavy enough for the lights but a relay may be in my future here.)

I have a number of wires under the hood that need to be terminated and connected, and have not done a thing yet with the paddle shift. So I'm still at least a couple weeks away from applying power, maybe more. And of course there are the voltage checks before installing the jumpers.

Jim

[Jim Blackwood]

I've been hung up on GPI2/AD1 Input 2, RL (reverse). The input is grounded to activate. The two large contacts on the transmission selector switch make for Reverse but presently power the back-up lights. I'm not sure if there is another contact available to switch to ground in the reverse position but I have that one wire left to deal with on that connector before the bottom of the cat is buttoned up. I'd rather not deal with a relay.

So, the plan is to find a way to test the remaining switch terminals but because once these pins go in they're done I have to find a way to probe the pins. Fun stuff, and working with mirrors. But still working on it.

The alternatives include modifying the GPI2 circuit for a 12v+ input, (I'd rather not deviate any more than I have to).

Fun stuff.

Jim

[Jim Blackwood]

Sad to say, I had a great deal of trouble using the small pins that this connector body uses. They have the same P/N as the ones used by the main transmission connector (AA80E) but even after removing the inside cap getting the pins to lock in was difficult and they didn't look straight, but had the appearance of being slightly "clocked". After all of that, connection to the switch itself was poor. Nowhere near consistent enough to use, even though checking the switch itself shows it to be good. This surprises me as I had no troubles with the main transmission connector, however they come from different manufacturers. The main connector went together quite easily and I have no reason at this point to question its integrity. The stock switch is P/N -71010 and uses connector body P/N -12362.

Pin#2 is common
Pin#1 is Reverse
Pins #4 and 5 are the Park/Neutral interlock contacts
Pin#6 is Park
Pin#9 is Neutral
Pin#7 is Drive
Pin#3 is D2
Pin#8 is Low

The switch off the 5 speed, P/N 84540-51010 with connector housing P/N 90980-11784 ( http://www.toyotapart.com/90980-11784.html ) appears to me to be a good upgrade with considerably larger contacts inside the connector. The logic diagram is identical although the pin designations are different. Physically the switches look nearly the same and appear to have the same mount and travel distance. Better yet, I have an unmolested factory connector with a couple feet of wire attached and am getting good continuity to the switch. I'm thinking the smart move is to use this one, it should be more reliable in the long run. Provided the new connector is not too wide to fit alongside the transmission case. For this switch:

Pin#3 is Common
Pins#6 and 9 are the starter interlock
Pin#1 is Park
Pin#2 is Reverse
Pin#5 is Neutral
Pin#7 is Drive
Pin#4 is D2
Pin#8 is Low

Edit: the 5 speed switch does fit the AA80E without interference. However, I was able to finally get continuity through the original connector so I will try it once more before giving up on it just to make parts matching a little easier for any future need. It's good to have a back-up plan. Actually what I need to decide is whether I'm more comfortable with butt splicing the small wires on the 5 speed switch (no big deal with adhesive/shrink splices), or crimping and installing new pins and seals on the 8 speed switch, for which I haven't so far been able to source any of the contacts for the two large pins. I'm still sort of inclined to go with the 5 speed switch but I'll have to check travel and switch alignment before I can OK it. That does mean a parts mismatch but that only matters if the switch fails. If the connector is more reliable perhaps that is worth the mismatch.

Jim

[Jim Blackwood]

I am adding the 7 segment LED numerical display with 4511 display driver to the LED outputs as described in this link:
http://www.msgpio.com/manuals/mshift/7segment.html

It is necessary to configure the GPO1,2,3,&4 circuits in the pull-up configuration with 1K resistors and jumpers as shown here:
http://www.msgpio.com/manuals/index.htm
I chose to use the 5vref jumper to keep the strain on the circuitry and the 4511 driver low but 12v should also work fine.
I've built the indicator with the driver chip glued to the back of the display chip. It makes the connections a bit dense but with 1/8w resistors isn't bad. The assembly will fit in one of my switch housings on the dashboard where there is space.

I am also using the NXP-Demo PCA8886 dual channel capacitive proximity sensor board connected to paddle shifters mounted to the steering column cowl. More about that later. AMP round body mini CPC connectors are on their way from Digi-Key to hook up those wires, leaving just the CAN bus, speedo and a couple of other wires to tidy up. Should be testing the jumper pins in a couple weeks if all goes well (still waiting on materials to finish the paddles).

Jim

[Jim Blackwood]

Installed and tested.
Might have to scroll the bottom photo down to see the indicator light.

Jim

[Jim Blackwood]

Update, in case y'all thought I'd forgotten you. Work continues, but slowly. I made the mistake of starting a list of what was left to be done... bad idea. I tore it up a couple days back and work has resumed. I figure I need to have the car ready to go out on the street before asking for a code variant for the 8 speed so that I'll immediately be able to do some testing. This seems the most sensible and considerate approach and to that end I've had to concentrate on a number of peripheral issues. Such as, new fuel pump installed and pressure adjusted. New hydraulic front end lift cylinders installed but plumbing is being redone to a larger line size. So on.

This was a massive upgrade with a full custom drivetrain and lots of accommodating modifications. I'm close to the end but it seems the last 10% takes 90% of the time. Still working on it though and expect to be ready to test before much longer.

Jim

[Jim Blackwood]

Still plugging along. I intend to come to the MegaMeet 2105 next weekend. I expect I could bring the car, though there is a lot unfinished, I'll have to think about that.

Jim

[Jim Blackwood]

Finally, I hope I'm ready to move on with this. The car is driveable and I think I'm ready for the next step. Sorry it took so long, there was a lot to do.

So Lance, I'd like to ask for your help when you can get to it. The last file on the preceding page should be accurate and up to date I believe.

I've been looking at setting up the CAN bus communications but it looks like maybe I need the ini file for the MShift before I can do that.

I'm pretty excited about trying this out I have to admit. Kinda scared too to be honest. It's coming up to the point where I find out if I did good, or just wasted an incredible amount of time and effort. But the motor is running pretty good, certainly well enough for testing and the car moves under it's own power in limp mode and even shifts gears, I just haven't been brave enough yet to take it out on the road without the controller hooked up. It's probably unreasonable but I'm afraid of burning up a clutch pack.

This will probably work out to where I am doing my testing in the frigid dead of winter, but if that gets me to being able to drive the car by warm weather it's worth it.

I would try testing with a tran-stim but I sort of doubt the ones available would be much help since this is an 8 speed.

Lance, I really greatly appreciate the help you've given on this project. I hope for success and for us to be able to say that the MegaShift has successfully controlled an 8 speed. (If this is the first) That should be some pretty good bragging rights I think.

Jim

[Bernard Fife]

Jim,

It looks like you have made really good progress (though I know from experience that it always takes much longer than you think at first).

I am happy to help where I can, what specifically do you need?

It is always nerve-wracking when starting the first road test. As an intermediate step, starting with the driven axle on Jack stands can help. There's more on this here: http://www.msgpio.com/manuals/mshift/test.html

Lance.

[Jim Blackwood]

Thanks Lance.
If I recall correctly you needed to modify the code for the 8 speed but we will have to go back and dig into the specifics I imagine. By memory I can say that it has 9 control solenoids. I added two drivers beyond what the GPIO board will carry. I tried really hard to keep the circuit assignments as close to standard as I could, even to the point of using all of the small jumper blocks. Looks like it's time for me to go back and re-read all of the posts in this thread, check my documentation, and see if anything special jumps out at me.

For your purposes I *think* going over the last spreadsheet should cover it, but I'll look for anything out of place and do the review so I can answer any questions you have.

Jim